What a true legend. Gerry's book is timeless, entertaining, an easy read, and historical. Surfing is what I go to when life is super stressful and I just need to let off some steam. April 1st 2008 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. I would recommend this book to anybody who surfs, because if you surf, you know Gerry's impact on the surfing world. This is really a collection of stories: it is autobiographical, but also part travel-log, and then there are the historical threads that weave through modern surfing and the short board revolution. Overview. I think his discipline to his way of life allowed him to be completely in the moment during his escapades, thus extending the reader such a clear picture. look forward to reading more from him. If you've ever seen a picture of Lopez in the Pipe at pipeline or elsewhere, that casual pose full of grace and power, yet belying the speed and danger, then you might get a sense Gerry's writing. His “easy going” style of life and surfing reflects in his stories, as if you were having a conversation with “The Pipeline Master” himself. En savoir plus et paramétrer les cookies, Soyez le premier à partagervotre avis sur ce produit, Conditions générales d'utilisation Fnac Pay&Go. The next 2 lessons this past March. by Patagonia Books. Surrounded by vibrant nature and a versatile local community, we had to admit Gery Lopez was right (again). Soon, he had a board and a spot in the lineup outside his house at Queen's. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. He did this by discovering the way of waves. I really loved this book! If in doubt, paddle out! fantastic book, takes a few chapters for Gerry to find his writing flow, but then it is great story after great story. Then, in return, thousands of surfers and friends soaked up that Aloha spirit from Gerry. En poursuivant votre navigation, vous acceptez la politique Cookies, le dépôt de cookies et technologies similaires tiers ou non ainsi que le croisement avec des données que vous nous avez fournies pour améliorer votre expérience, la diffusion des contenus et publicités personnalisés par notre enseigne ou par des partenaires au regard de vos centres d’intérêts, effectuer des études afin d’optimiser nos offres et prévenir les risques de fraude. Refresh and try again. Running across this book by Gerry Lopez was a real treat. Running across this book by Gerry Lopez was a real treat. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. Highly recommended. Something went wrong. Welcome back. Reviewed in the United States on November 30, 2015. When in doubt, go out. Reviewed in the United States on October 9, 2015. I bought this paperback copy to replace an earlier(white covers) version because it had been expanded and revised -plus this latest edition has way more interesting photo image pages. The writer is not only a talented world class surfer, an actor, but also an author of this and other books. Absolutely unreal tales of one voice within the larger progress of surfing narrative. And so when I saw this book come out, I ordered it and found it reveals yet another great side to Gerry Lopez, an intelligent writer, and a thoughtful, rounded person with a great perspective on surfing and life. I did not read this book---- I bought it for my husband. There is a reason this book got 5 stars, and it's because I love it. overall, i do not regret reading about Mr. Lopez and hi. You can really see what. I didn't realize most if not all of this book has been published as short stories elsewhere. This is a book written by a surfer for surfers and anyone else that has ever been to the beach and seen someone ride a surfboard and said how do they do that? Lopez embodied the Eastern spirituality, related with surfing/ hippie/ naturalist movements nowadays. There was an error retrieving your Wish Lists. Sure he was made into a kind of God in Big Wednesday, where I first heard about him, but there is no denying his style and grace in difficult waves. He grew up on the island of Oahu in Hawaii. If you haven't heard of record-smashing singer and songwriter Mariah Carey, is there any hope for you? Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest … The book is 5 stars - the Kindle Edition is 1 star. Mr. Lopez is a masterful storyteller and the tales contain wonderful metaphors that helped me to understand my own experience surfing even better....his description of paddling out to pipeline for the first time has become a theme in my own life....exploring unknown territory - even when it's never been done before because you can and you feel ready?